Dehlite for a Day
As the sun peeked over the horizon, New Delhi greeted us with an unusual calm. The usual cacophony of honking horns and bustling streets was replaced by a serene silence, broken only by the occasional bark of a stray dog. It was as if the city had taken a deep breath, preparing itself for the day ahead. A mist hung in the air, a gentle reminder of the rice fields surrounding the city, their remnants burning and sending smoky tendrils into the urban landscape. This haze added to the already severe pollution that makes New Dehli the most polluted city in the world, as of this writing.
New Delhi, the capital of India, is not just a city—it’s a world within itself. A blend of ancient history and modern ambition, the city has been the seat of power for many empires. It was redesigned during British colonial rule to serve as the capital of British India, and it has since evolved into a vibrant, chaotic, and culturally rich metropolis.
Humayun's Tomb: A Glimpse of Grandeur
Our first stop was Humayun's Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a precursor to the Taj Mahal. Built in the 16th century, this magnificent mausoleum is a fine example of Mughal architecture, combining Persian and Indian styles. It was the first garden tomb in India, reflecting the Mughal love for symmetry and aesthetics.
Walking through its corridors felt like stepping back in time, with echoes of history whispering tales of emperors and empires. The tomb, commissioned by Humayun's widow, Bega Begum, stands as a symbol of love and architectural brilliance. As we wandered the gardens, we couldn’t help but admire the delicate latticework and intricate carvings that adorned the structure.
Community and Karma
The highlight of our day was an unexpected visit to a Sikh temple, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, one of the most prominent Sikh places of worship in India. The Gurudwara's golden dome shone brightly against the backdrop of the city's chaos. Sikhism, founded in the 15th century, emphasizes equality, community service, and devotion to one God. This ethos was palpable as we entered the temple.
My previous encounters with Sikhism had been limited, but today, I was about to delve deeper into its heart. Instead of the temple's main hall, we found ourselves in the Langar Hall—the community kitchen. Langar is a free meal service offered by Sikh temples worldwide, serving thousands daily regardless of caste, creed, or religion. The concept dates back to Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, who believed in breaking social barriers through shared meals. Here, the air was filled with the aroma of freshly cooked meals, prepared by volunteers who worked tirelessly to feed thousands daily and when I say thousands, I mean around 35,000 meal on weekdays and 90,000 on weekends. The scale of this operation was staggering, with pots as large as jacuzzis and rice containers resembling bathtubs. The chapati-making process was a dance of skill and tradition, with volunteers of all ages contributing to this generous cause. It was a humbling sight to witness people coming together selflessly, united by a shared mission of service.
Dehlitees in Dehli
As we continued our exploration, we joined this free walking tour, led by Raj, a charismatic guide with a passion for showing the authentic side of New Delhi. He promised us a journey through the city's soul, bypassing the usual tourist spots in favor of hidden gems and local experiences. The tour was an adventure in itself, a five-hour odyssey that felt like a blink of an eye. It started with a cup of street Chai tea, while Raj shared more on the history of New Dehli.
The city, which served as the capital of the Mughal Empire for centuries, still carries the charm of its past in areas like Chandni Chowk, a bustling market known for its narrow lanes, colorful shops, and iconic street food. I still wonder how a few tuk-tuks, market stands, and by-passers can all fit simultaneously in its narrow alleys. Meanwhile, areas like Connaught Place exude colonial elegance, with its circular layout and Georgian-style architecture—a relic of British India.
We sipped chai tea while learning about the city's rich history, then ventured into markets that catered to both the affluent and the everyday shopper. The underground market was a labyrinth of sights and sounds like “sir, sir, a jacket for you”, where we were the only tourists, and the art of bargaining was a skill to be mastered.
Navigating Delhi's streets was an experience akin to a thrilling ride through a bustling forest of vehicles. Tuk-tuks of all kinds—CNG-powered, electric, and even leg-powered—whizzed past us, along with cows, camels, monkeys, cars, scooters and motorcycles. Each journey a chaotic dance of honking horns and vibrant colors. It was a testament to the city's indomitable spirit, where order and chaos coexisted in a delicate balance. One thing was clear to me to get your driver’s license in New Dehli, you need to know how to honk.
As the day drew to a close, I found myself reflecting on the wisdom shared by a volunteer at the Sikh temple. His words, spoken with the calm authority of someone who had seen much of life, resonated deeply: before we can create a good society, we must first nurture a good family. It was a simple truth, yet profound in its implications.
New Delhi had offered us a tapestry of experiences, each thread woven with the colors of culture, community, and chaos. It reminded us that the beauty of a city lies not just in its monuments but in the stories of its people. It is a more realistic impression of a city if you see and live it as a local Dehlitee. Raj made sure that we would move on our journey with that experience in our backpacks.
In the end, the city wasn’t just a destination; it was a journey—a glimpse into the heart of a nation, a climb through the peaks and valleys of human experience, and a reminder of the power of unity and kindness in a world of contrasts.
SOME RECOMMENDATION FROM OUR DEHLI EXPERIENCE:
Free Walking Tour: Here is the link to the free walking tour we did, which was super authentic and local. If for whatever reason the link would not work, I have the contact of Raj, the tour guide.
Our Airbnb Accomodation: We stayed in this Airbnb, called F18 India Bed & Breakfast. Comfortable, quiet location at night, and close to the metro station Lajpat Nagar.
Eat here: From three different people we were recommended to eat at Karim’s, including Raj who took us here for dinner. Founded in 1913 by Bahadur Shah Zafar with the mission to bring royal food to the common man. I recommend to start at the Jama Masjid, and walk to the restaurant (5 min.). Be ready for a busy and crowded walk. Butter chicken with plain naan.
Get in the kitchen: For an eye-opening experience on community and generosity, try to visit the kitchen of the Gurudwara Shri Bangla Sahib ji.
Comfort breakfast: We found a more westernised breakfast with a great and extensive selection of coffee and food options at Brim’s.
Touring Northern India: Thinking of visiting more than New Dehli? We struck gold with Private Driver in India. They provide private drivers that adapt to your customised itinerary.
