Zanzibar, through Ally’s eyes, is more than just a tropical island—it’s a place shaped by faith, family, and hard work. As our driver and guide, Ally showed us a side of Zanzibar that few tourists ever see. His world is one of quiet resilience, a deep connection to his roots, and an unshakable belief that life’s challenges are meant to be met with a smile and a steadfast heart. Through him, we came to understand that this island is not just about its stunning beaches or vibrant markets—it's about the people who make it a home.

A Humble Beginning

Ally didn’t always drive tourists around the island in his spotless white Toyota van. He used to walk the beaches of Zanzibar, trying to bring tourists into a small raffia hut where they could purchase local souvenirs—paintings, bracelets, and other handcrafted items. Life on the beaches is not easy, as we experienced during our stay. It’s common to be approached by vendors, often persistent, asking “What is your name?” or “Come to my shop,” a routine we came to expect. Ally once lived this life, hustling to make ends meet. But his story took a different turn when he was discovered by Anna, the manager of our hotel. Through casual conversation, she learned that Ally was also a licensed taxi driver.

Ally, with his ever-present smile, is a man of deep faith. He lives his life with a sense of purpose and dedication, working hard to provide for his wife Zuhura and their three children—Munira, Hasan, and little Abu. His belief is simple but profound: “If God wants me to be rich, I will be rich. If I must live as a poor man, I will live as a poor man.” It’s this faith that keeps him grounded, along with his sense of responsibility to work as hard as he can for his family.

A Life Rooted in Faith and Love

For Ally, family is at the center of everything. Though Zanzibar law allows men to have up to four wives, Ally is devoted to his wife, Zuhura, whom he has been married to for over 12 years. His three children are his pride and joy. He speaks of them with a gleam in his eye, especially Abu, who is just 1.5 years old and already imitates his father’s every move. “He waits for me,” Ally told us with a smile. “He watches everything I do—he even checks the car like I do before I drive.”

In Zanzibar, polygamy is legal and it’s not uncommon for men to have more than one wife. “Some men have four,” Ally explained, “but it’s important to know that if you have more than one wife, you must provide equally for all of them.” His choice to have only one wife reflects his commitment to Zuhura and the partnership they have built together. “Zuhura does the real hard work,” Ally said, always quick to give her credit. “I drive and come home to my children. But Zuhura, she takes care of everything—she makes bread and juice to sell in the village, cooks the food, cleans the house, washes the clothes… she does it all.”

Ally’s admiration for his wife is palpable, and it reminded me of how essential family is in this part of the world. His faith drives him to work hard, and his love for his family keeps him grounded. Despite the challenges that come with providing for a family, Ally remains committed, always putting their well-being first. His pride in his wife’s efforts, and the way he involves his children in his life, are clear markers of how central family is to his identity.

This deep connection to family is not just a personal trait—it’s a reflection of the broader culture in Zanzibar, where family is often the pillar that holds everything together. Faith, hard work, and the bonds of family form the foundation of life here, a foundation that Ally has fully embraced.

A Sense of Pride

From the moment we stepped into Ally’s van, I noticed a small detail that left a big impression. Our dusty flip-flops would leave footprints on the silicon floor mat, but each time we returned, the mat was spotless. Ally took pride in this simple act, ensuring that his vehicle was as clean and welcoming as possible. It struck me how this small detail reflected a larger truth: pride in the work you do, no matter how big or small, has a profound impact. Ally’s meticulous care for his van made me think about the “footprints” we leave behind in our own lives—whether it’s in our personal spaces, like the messy couch at home, or in our professional work. Inspired by Ally, I’ve promised myself to start each day with those little details in mind—cleaning up the small messes and taking pride in the footprints I leave behind.

A Walk Through Zanzibar

One evening, as Fabienne went for a manicure and pedicure, Ally and I ventured into the small village of Pwani Mchangani. It was dark, and the lack of street lighting made the village seem even quieter, more mysterious. We walked the narrow streets, passing small shops, barely distinguishable in the dim light. We stopped at a local bakery, where Ally offered me a puffed-up chapati wrapped in a Korean newspaper—one of the quirks of life here. As we walked further, Ally pointed to a street vendor selling grilled octopus and squid. With a smile, he grabbed two toothpicks, speared a piece of squid, dipped it into a spicy sauce, and gestured for me to do the same. It was delicious, the kind of spicy that adds flavor without overpowering.

Later, we stopped by a gas station, where Ally introduced me to what he called an "African Coca-Cola." It wasn’t soda at all, but rather a fresh coconut, hacked open by a man with a machete. I had heard wrong “African Coco Cola” was what Ally had mentioned. We drank the refreshing coconut water, and once we finished, the man split the coconut in half, offering us the meat inside. These small, unplanned moments with Ally gave me a glimpse into the everyday life of Zanzibar—simple, yet full of richness and tradition.

The Women of Zanzibar

During the early mornings, when the tide is low, I noticed groups of women standing in the shallow waters, bent over with their hands submerged. As I observed more closely, I realized these women were farming seaweed, a practice that has been passed down through generations. Ally explained the process to me. These women walk up to 1 kilometer into the ocean at low tide, harvesting the seaweed and hanging it on strings or placing it in sacks. They then carry the heavy strings, draped around their necks like a wet, green fur coat, back to shore, where the seaweed is laid out to dry under the hot Tanzanian sun.

Seaweed farming is hard, physical work, and it’s done almost exclusively by women. According to Ally, “Men are lazy. Only women are strong enough to do this kind of work.” Once dried, the seaweed is sold for about $1 per kilo and is used locally to make soap, cosmetics, and detergents. Watching these women, I was struck by their strength, their quiet resilience, and their role in sustaining their families through such demanding labor.

The History of Stone Town

No visit to Zanzibar is complete without a trip to Stone Town, the island’s historic heart. Stone Town, once the capital of the Zanzibar Sultanate, has a rich history, having been part of the Portuguese Empire, the Sultanate of Oman, and the British Empire before becoming part of Tanzania in 1964. Walking through the narrow alleys of Stone Town, you can feel the weight of history in the air. The town’s architecture tells a story of its own, with Swahili, Arab, and Indian influences reflected in the intricate designs of the doors that line the streets.

Ally spoke to us about the peaceful coexistence of religions in Zanzibar. “Here, you see a mosque next to a Catholic church,” he said. “We live together in peace, without conflict.” It’s a powerful reminder of how different communities can live in harmony, something that has left a lasting impression on me. In a world often divided by differences, Zanzibar stands as a testament to the possibility of unity.

Hakuna Matata

One of the phrases I heard most often during our time with Ally was “Hakuna matata,” meaning “no worries.” It’s a philosophy that seems to guide not just Ally, but much of life in Zanzibar. As Ally said, “Life will bring its challenges, but worrying won’t bring you much further. All you can do is learn and hakuna matata.” There’s a simplicity to this mindset, a reminder that happiness is not found in possessions, but in attitude. Ally works hard, but he doesn’t stress about the future. “God will guide me”.

As we prepare to leave Zanzibar, I feel a sense of bittersweetness. We’ve experienced so much tranquility here, yet I leave with the understanding that, as tourists, we only see one side of life on the island. Still, I’ve learned valuable lessons from Ally—how to work hard and trust that things will fall into place, how to take pride in the small details, and how to live with a sense of gratitude and peace. I leave knowing that there is time for work and time to live life, and that happiness is something we create within ourselves.

A Lesson in Happiness

Before we left, one of the staff members at our hotel, Betha, asked if I could teach her how to make latte art. She wanted to learn, to improve, even though I could only offer the basics—a simple onion shape, maybe a tulip if I was lucky. This small moment encapsulated so much of what I felt in Zanzibar. There is a genuine desire among people here to learn, to grow, and to find joy in the process. It reminded me that happiness is not about where you are or what you have, but about how you approach life.

As we say goodbye to Zanzibar, I carry these lessons with me—the importance of pride in your work, the power of faith and hard work, and the beauty of living life with a “hakuna matata” mindset.

Because, as Ally would say, “Hakuna matata. Life will take care of itself.”

Picture credits to my wife Fabienne.

In case it may be helpful in planning your trip to Zanzibar, we stayed at La Perla Beach Resort. If you need a driver to pick you up at the airport or take you on excursions around the island, use this contact form with the subject “Ally’s Number”.

Through His Eyes: A Journey in Zanzibar