Roadtripping in Namibia: A 14-Day Guide
Namibia is a land of vast landscapes, otherworldly beauty, and endless horizons—a place where the desert meets the ocean, and the sky stretches wider than you ever thought possible. From towering sand dunes in Sossusvlei to the rugged coastlines of the Skeleton Coast and the rich wildlife of Etosha National Park, Namibia offers adventure around every corner.
Our 14-day road trip through Namibia was the perfect way to take in the country's iconic sights while discovering hidden gems along the way. Whether you're navigating dusty roads in the Namib Desert or spotting wildlife on safari, I have put together this guide to walk you through everything you need to plan an unforgettable journey, including recommended routes, must-see spots, tips on where to stay, things we would do differently, and essential advice for road-tripping in this unique country.
Ready to hit the open road? Let’s dive into the ultimate 14-day itinerary to explore Namibia’s most breathtaking landscapes and cultural highlights.
Renting a Car in Namibia: What You Need to Know
Namibia’s road system offers a wild variety of driving conditions, with most of your journey likely on gravel roads. Here’s what we learned from our 14-day road trip:
CHOOSING THE RIGHT VEHICLE
We opted for a Toyota Hilux equipped with 4x4 capabilities. This type of vehicle is ideal for navigating Namibia’s challenging terrain, even though you might only need 4x4 on specific stretches, like the final 7 km to Sossusvlei. The Hilux provided the flexibility of a roof tent, allowing us to set up camp wherever we wanted—a must if you’d rather not rely on lodge reservations. The bed of the truck, covered with a canopy, kept our camping gear secure and ready for any adventure.
CAR HIRE OPTIONS
We rented from Aloe 4x4 Car Hire, a small family-owned business known for its personalized service and on-road support. Although they have a smaller fleet, the attention to detail and support we received was excellent. Our rental came fully outfitted with camping essentials:
Roof tent with a mattress and bedding
Portable fridge and gas bottle for cooking
Camping chairs, table, pots, pans, cutlery, and a box for grocery storage
Two spare tires (and trust us, you’ll want these for peace of mind)
Another popular car hire company we saw frequently on the road was Namibia2Go, offering a broader range of vehicles, including more recent models and SUVs if you’re just looking for transport.
TYRES AND VEHICLE CHECKS
Before heading out, one essential lesson we learned is to inspect the tires thoroughly. For gravel roads, rear tires should ideally have a tread depth between 10 and 15 mm. Worn tires can cause the car to drift, especially on dusty roads with loose gravel, which can be dangerous. It’s easy to overlook, but checking those tires can make all the difference for safe driving.
What our wheel profile looked like.
What your wheel profile should look like.
ROAD CONDITIONS AND SPEED LIMITS
Namibia has a mix of road surfaces:
Tarred Roads: Only a few main highways, like B1, B2, and A1, are tarred.
Gravel Roads: Expect about 90% of the roads to be gravel or sand.
The speed limits are generally 120 km/h on tarred roads and 60 km/h on gravel roads, but feel free to go even slower if needed. Conditions can shift suddenly, and there were stretches where we drove as slow as 20 km/h to maintain control. Etosha National Park has particularly rough roads, where constant alertness is essential.
A few rules to remember:
No night driving: Most rentals prohibit this due to the risk of wildlife on the roads.
Avoid driving during sandstorms: Visibility and control become major concerns.
Lights on at all times: With so much dust in the air, headlights are a must, even during the day.
FUEL STOPS
Refueling is crucial—top off the tank whenever you get the chance, even if you’re just down a quarter tank. Namibia is vast, and fuel stations can be sparse. We’ll include our own refueling stops in the itinerary to help with planning.
💡 ESSENTIAL TIPS FOR A SMOOTH ROAD TRIP
Get a Local SIM Card
While cell reception is sparse outside populated areas, a SIM card is worth getting for the times you can get a signal. You can pick one up conveniently at the baggage claim area in Windhoek Airport. Not all campsites have Wi-Fi, so having a local SIM on hand for emergencies or essential communication is a must. We had MTC as our providerBring a Paper Map
Going analog is a must for a Namibian road trip. In many areas, internet connection will be virtually nonexistent, so a paper roadmap is essential. It’s surprisingly satisfying and incredibly helpful for navigating long stretches without service. We had this foldable map and we loved going back to basic navigation.Set Your Odometer to Zero
Before you start each leg of your drive, reset the odometer (kilometer counter) to zero. This old-school trick came in handy for tracking distances when we couldn’t rely on GPS, helping us anticipate upcoming turns and check our progress against the paper map.Have this Adaptor with You
Despite having this multiplug adaptor with us, in most camps they only have Type-M plugs. To avoid headaches and empty batteries, I recommend to have this adaptor with you (Type-M) with you and a power strip so you can plug several electronic devices.
A Few Things We Were Happy We Brought
Before diving into our day-by-day itinerary, we want to highlight a few items that truly enhanced our experience on this epic Namibian road trip. These essentials not only made camping and traveling more comfortable but also helped us adapt to the unique challenges of exploring such a diverse and remote landscape. Whether you're planning a similar adventure or just curious about what came in handy, here's a quick look at the gear we were especially thankful for along the way.
Downloaded Music and Podcasts: With long stretches of driving through Namibia and limited internet connectivity having downloaded music and podcasts became a lifesaver.
Laundry Hanging Line: A compact and sturdy laundry line was a lifesaver for drying clothes, towels, or swimwear after a long day. Campsites often lacked places to hang items, and this line allowed us to make the most of sunny afternoons to dry everything efficiently.
Headlamp: Essential for navigating the campsite after dark, especially when common areas like bathrooms or the water tap were far from our tent. It freed our hands and provided great visibility, whether we were setting up dinner or reading before bed.
Collapsible Tent Lantern: This compact, foldable lantern provided soft, even lighting for inside the tent. It created a cozy ambiance while being practical for evening preparations or organizing our things without blinding each other with headlamps.
Mosquito Spray (Body and Tent): A dual-purpose savior against pesky mosquitoes. The body spray kept us bite-free during evenings around the campsite, while the tent spray added an extra layer of protection, ensuring peaceful, undisturbed sleep. This you can buy at the grocery store in Namibia.
Thin Microfiber Towels: Lightweight, quick-drying, and space-saving, these towels were ideal for camping. They dried quickly between uses, unlike bulky cotton towels, which would have taken forever to dry in the desert's cooler evenings.
Power Banks: With limited access to power at many campsites, having fully charged power banks kept our phones, cameras, and other electronics running, especially when we needed them for navigation or capturing memories. The range here is wide, I would recommend a 50000 mAh.
Two 1.5 Liter Tupperware Containers: Perfect for storing leftovers or prepping larger portions like rice for the next few days. These containers were invaluable for maintaining a bit of meal variety and minimizing waste during the trip. They fit well in the car fridge and kept everything fresh. You can also get in the supermarket, the first day when you go and get supplies.
Travel Tripod: There was not always someone who could take a picture of us. This compact and lightweight tripod allowed us to capture cool pictures without needing assistance. It was especially useful at Sossusvlei.
Days 1 & 2: Arrival in Windhoek and Journey to Landsberg Campsites (500 km)
Our Namibian adventure started in Windhoek, the country’s capital and central hub. We arrived at 17:00 and spent the night at APS Guest House, a comfortable place to rest before hitting the road. Most car hire companies in Windhoek, including our chosen provider, offer convenient airport pick-up and drop-off services, which makes the logistics smoother for international travelers. The following morning, the owner of our rental company personally picked us up and took us to their location to finalize paperwork and set us up with our vehicle.
After stocking up on groceries and fueling up, we were ready for our first destination—Landsberg Campsites—500 km to the south. This leg of the journey, our longest single drive of the entire trip, took around 7.5 hours, including stops for lunch and refueling.
THE DRIVE TO LANDSBERG
Initially, the journey was smooth on the B1, a paved one-lane highway that deceptively hints that road conditions might be easy. However, the real Namibian road experience begins once you turn off the B1 and hit your first gravel road. Driving here is like riding a rollercoaster, with undulating roads that go up and down, hiding what lies on the other side.
Our first fuel stop was in Maltahöhe, an interesting but slightly uneasy experience, as this was the only place on our trip where we felt less secure. Here are some safety tips for refueling in less familiar areas:
Keep your doors locked and avoid distractions.
If someone tries to point out a “problem” with your vehicle, don’t leave the car or check unless you’re certain. Some individuals may attempt to distract you while others approach your car from the opposite side.
Despite this one instance, the rest of our trip felt very safe.
THE FINAL STRETCH TO LANDESBERG
The last 25 km to Landsberg is on an F-road (farmer’s road), which we soon realized is code for “adventurous terrain.” This rugged stretch took over an hour to navigate due to its winding and rocky path, which becomes even more challenging at night. In hindsight, we’d recommend an earlier start to reach camp before dark.
Landsberg Campsites offers a quiet, private setup with ample amenities. Each campsite comes with a private shower, toilet, and sink, and the different sites have unique viewpoints (sunrise, sunset, or full landscape), so be sure to check out their website in advance.
💡 LANDSBERG CAMPSITE HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Privacy and Space: Each campsite is secluded and spacious, adding to the sense of peace and immersion in nature.
Individual Facilities: Private shower and toilet with hot water and a dedicated dishwashing area at each campsite bring an added level of comfort.
Lowlights:
No Power Outlets: You’ll need to rely on battery packs, as campsites don’t have power outlets.
Wi-Fi: Available for purchase but unreliable; enjoy the chance to disconnect and take in the surroundings.
What We’d Do Differently:
Arrive Earlier: Starting the drive earlier would allow for a sunset arrival, enhancing the experience.
Stay an Extra Night: We found ourselves wanting more time to appreciate the tranquility and beauty of this campsite.
Day 3 : Landsberg to Sesriem
After a restful night at Landsberg Campsite, we set off for Sesriem, where we’d be spending two nights—first at Desert Quiver Lodge for some extra comfort, and the second at Sesriem Campsite. This leg of the trip spans 244 km and took us around 5.5 hours.
C27 - TAKING THE SCENIC ROUTE
Despite Google Maps advising us to backtrack along our previous route, we decided to follow the C27 north based purely on gut feeling. The C27 did not disappoint, offering stunning landscapes that changed with each turn. It was hard to resist stopping for photos as the scenery continuously unfolded. We highly recommend this route if you have the luxury of time—it adds an adventurous and scenic element to the journey.
PIT STOPPING AT BETTA
Around 100 km from Landsberg, we reached Betta, a great place to take a break and refuel. Betta Lodge has a small gas station, a shop with supplies, restrooms, and even showers if you’re in need of a refresh. We treated ourselves to a French press coffee before pressing on toward Sesriem, arriving at Desert Quiver Lodge around 17:30. The lodge’s individual bungalows provided a nice chance to recharge with a hot shower and a real bed.
💡 DESERT QUIVER LODGE HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Privacy: Individual bungalows with private bathrooms and showers
Connection to Internet: Wi-Fi available near the reception and pool area
Power available: power sockets are available in each of the camping slots
Lowlights:
Outside park’s outer gate: Located outside the park’s outer gate, so sunrise access to Sossusvlei is not possible
Day 4: Sesriem Canyon, Elim Dune, and Sossusvlei
After relaxing by the pool at Desert Quiver Lodge and organizing our upcoming itinerary, we checked in at Sesriem Campsite at around 14:00. If you happen to get camp spot #25, avoid it—it’s better suited for curiosity than comfort!
AFTERNOON PROGRAM: SESRIEM CANYON AND ELIM DUNE
In the afternoon, we visited Sesriem Canyon, located just across from Sesriem Camp. We recommend exploring the left side of the canyon, where the narrower, cooler sections offer shade and beautiful photo opportunities. Spend around 40 minutes to an hour walking through this fascinating area.
For sunset, head to Elim Dune, one of the first dunes you’ll encounter in the park. Arrive about 1.5 hours before sunset to enjoy the full experience of climbing the dune, which takes around 45 minutes. Follow the footprints to the top, where you can take in the spectacular views. After sunset, linger briefly to enjoy the colors, but keep an eye on the time—the park gate closes an hour after sunset, so plan accordingly.
INSIDER TIPS FOR SOSSUSVLEI AND SESRIEM PARK GATES
Sossusvlei is located within Namib-Naukluft National Park, and understanding how the gate system works can significantly enhance your visit:
Two Gates: The park has an outer gate and an inner gate. The inner gate opens one hour before sunrise, while the outer gate only opens at sunrise.
Inside the Outer Gate: To get the most out of sunrise in Sossusvlei and enjoy fewer crowds, it’s ideal to book at least one night within the park’s outer gate, which allows early access to the inner gate at dawn. We stayed at Sesriem Campsite for this reason—booking in advance is crucial as spots fill up fast.
💡 SESRIEM CAMP HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Inside outer park’s gate: Located within the outer park gate, allowing early access to Sossusvlei
Cooking is a choice: On-site restaurant with affordable and tasty food
Internet connection: Wi-Fi available in the bar/restaurant area with decent connectivity
Power available: Each campsite has its own light and power outlet
Lowlights:
Navigating at night: Campsite can be hard to navigate at night due to limited lighting, though individual spots are lit
Shared showers and toilets, which may require a walk if your spot isn’t close to them
What We’d Do Differently:
Book Sesriem Camp in Advance: Securing a spot within the park’s outer gate is essential for an optimal experience. Staying here ensures you can experience Sossusvlei with fewer crowds and a beautiful sunrise.
Day 5: Sunrise at Dune 45, Deadvlei, and the Scenic Drive to Swakopmund
Day 5 is all about precision timing and having a clear plan. We arrived at the park’s inner gate by 5:10 AM, ready and waiting to make the most of the early hours. Though we were told the gate wouldn’t open until 5:30, being first in line gave us the advantage of leading the charge to Dune 45. This 45 km drive from the gate was an exhilarating experience, with most vehicles speeding along at 80 km/h, well over the posted limit of 60 km/h.
SUNRISE AT DUNE 45
Our goal was to reach Dune 45 first, and we succeeded. The climb up this iconic dune was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the desert waking up. As the sun rose, the interplay of light, colors, and shadows across the dunes was nothing short of magical.
After taking it all in, we embraced the thrill of running down the dune, letting gravity do its work, and feeling the sand shift beneath our feet.
Pro tip: Wear hiking boots for these climbs. They offer the best grip and protect your feet from the coarse sand.
As we left Dune 45, we noticed the increasing number of visitors arriving. It was a stark reminder of the value of starting early to enjoy these moments in solitude.
DEADVLEI: THE EEIRIE BEAUTY OF THE DESERT
Our next destination was the famous Deadvlei, a surreal clay pan surrounded by towering red dunes and dotted with the charred remains of ancient camelthorn trees. From Dune 45, it’s a 15 km drive to the 2x4 parking area. If you’re driving a 4x4 (like our trusty Toyota Hilux), you can continue on the 6 km sandy stretch to the 4x4 parking lot.
For those opting to drive, here are some tips for navigating the sand:
Lower Tire Pressure: If the sand is particularly hot, reducing your tire pressure can provide better traction. This is optional but adds extra security.
Follow Existing Tracks: The sand in the tracks is already compacted, reducing the risk of getting stuck.
Keep Moving: Avoid braking or stopping unless absolutely necessary. Maintain a steady speed of about 30 km/h.
Stay in Low Gear: We found 2nd and 3rd gear in low range worked best for us.
Drive Straight: Keep steering adjustments minimal to avoid veering off track.
If Stuck, Don’t Panic: First try to reverse over your tracks. If this does not work use a spade to dig around them, place rocks or sticks for traction, and try again.
Enjoy the Ride: Driving in sand can be intimidating but is also incredibly fun.
If the drive isn’t for you, the park offers a shuttle service for a fee.
Once we arrived at the 4x4 parking lot, we set out on a short hike to Deadvlei. Timing again proved to be crucial—we were among the first there, sharing this serene and hauntingly beautiful landscape with only a few other couples.
The contrast between the white clay pan, the vivid red dunes, the scorched black trees, and the vibrant blue sky creates an otherworldly scene. By 8:30 AM, as more visitors arrived, we knew we’d made the right decision to start early. The peace and solitude made the experience all the more magical.
SCENIC DRIVE TO SWAKOPMUND
After returning to Sesriem, we packed up and set off on the drive to Swakopmund, a charming coastal town where the desert meets the ocean. The journey is about 345 km and takes approximately 6 hours, with some notable stops along the way:
Solitaire:
Around 80 km into the drive, we stopped at the tiny settlement of Solitaire to refuel and grab a slice of apple pie at McGregor’s Bakery. It’s a tourist favorite for a reason—the pie was delicious, especially after an early start.Tropic of Capricorn:
About 50 km after Solitaire, look out for the sign marking the Tropic of Capricorn. It’s a great photo opportunity for those interested in geography. (Unfortunately, we missed it!)Gaub Pass:
This scenic stretch of road winds through a mountainous area, offering stunning views and a fun driving experience before leveling out into smoother terrain.
SWAKOPMUND: A COASTAL RETREAT
We arrived in Swakopmund in the late afternoon and checked into the Tiger Reef Campsite, which provided the basics but left us wishing we’d opted for a guesthouse instead. Swakopmund offers a mix of German colonial charm and African vibrancy, with plenty to explore, including restaurants, cafes, and activities.
Recommendations for Swakopmund
The Tug Restaurant: A seafood restaurant offering spectacular ocean views. Reservations are a must.
Slowtown Coffee Roasters: A cool, laid-back cafe with fresh, delicious coffee.
Jeep Excursion to Sandwich Harbour: A highly recommended tour where you’ll witness the surreal meeting of the desert dunes and the crashing Atlantic waves.
Cafe Anton Cinnamon Roll: The rolls are only available on Sunday’s. Do not miss them if you happen to be around.
💡 TIGER REEF CAMP HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Power available: Power outlets available at each camping slot for charging devices
Showers with warm water: Common showers with warm water are easily accessible.
Lowlights:
Cannot connect the fridge: The power outlets can’t support appliances like our fridge.
Limited Internet: Internet access is limited to the reception area.
What We’d Do Differently:
Staying at a guesthouse: Given Swakopmund’s popularity and the abundance of guesthouses, we’d recommend booking a comfortable bed for the night. This is likely your last chance for reasonably priced accommodations before venturing further into the wilderness.
A different vantage point: Rather than through a jeep, book a scenic flight to see the desert shaking hands with the ocean from the air. Book in advance, as we tried to wing it on the day and all flights were full. The price is per airplane divided by the number of people flying. Two companies we called were Sossusfly and Scenic Air.
Day 6: From Swakopmund to Spitzkoppe – Granite Peaks and Desert Charm
Swakopmund greeted us on Day 6 with unexpected October weather—chilly, drizzly, and overcast. It felt like an entirely different Namibia, a stark contrast to the dry desert landscapes we had left behind in Sesriem. Bundling up in layers and after coffeeing up at Slowtown Coffee Roasters, we set off toward Spitzkoppe, a group of striking granite peaks often referred to as the “Matterhorn of Namibia.” These bald granite inselbergs rise dramatically from the surrounding desert plains, creating one of Namibia's most iconic landscapes.
PREPARING FOR THE JOURNEY
Before leaving Swakopmund, we made sure to refuel and restock on food for the next few days. With limited amenities at Spitzkoppe, preparation was key. The drive to Spitzkoppe follows the B2, a paved highway, which we had hoped would offer a smooth and relaxing journey. However, the B2 proved to be one of the more stressful roads we encountered.
The highway was busy with truck traffic, which meant frequent overtaking on a single-lane road. Between the heat-induced mirages and the unpredictable flow of traffic, it required sharp focus and patience. Despite these challenges, the scenery began to shift as we approached Spitzkoppe, and the sight of the towering peaks on the horizon made the drive worth it.
ARRIVING AT SPITZKOPPE CAMPSITES
After about two hours, we arrived at our overnight destination: Spitzkoppe Community Rest Camp. (Pro tip: Be sure not to confuse this with Spitzkoppe Tented Camp, as we did initially, which is a completely separate location.) Once we found the right place, we were greeted by an otherworldly landscape of rugged beauty. The camp is nestled amidst granite formations that seemed to glow in the late afternoon sun.
The campsite offers guided hikes to two main peaks: Spitzkoppe itself, which takes about six hours to complete, and Pontok Mountain, a shorter three-hour hike. Wanting to keep our next day flexible, we opted for the Pontok Mountain hike, which would allow us to continue our drive around midday.
We spent the rest of the day setting up our camp, relaxing, and simply taking in the breathtaking views. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the rocky peaks took on warm hues of orange and pink, creating an unforgettable sunset. Spitzkoppe is truly a haven for those seeking tranquility and stunning natural vistas.
💡 SPITZKOPPE CAMPSITE HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Private and Expansive Camp Spots: The campsites are scattered around the base of the granite peaks, offering privacy and incredible views. For the best sunset vistas, we recommend sites 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12.
Spectacular Landscape: Spitzkoppe's unique rocky terrain provides an enchanting backdrop for photography, stargazing, and quiet reflection.
On-Site Restaurant: If you’re not in the mood to cook, the restaurant is an alternative, yet you will have to drive to it as it is located close to the camp’s entrance.
Lowlights:
Distant Showers: The shared shower facilities are located near the entrance of the camp, which often requires a drive from most camp spots. It’s a bit of an inconvenience, especially after a long day.
Limited Internet Access: Wi-Fi is only available near the restaurant, and you’ll need to purchase a voucher for a small amount of data.
What We Would Do Differently:
Explore the Campgrounds by Car: Spitzkoppe’s vastness and unique topography are best appreciated with a drive around the area. Take the time to explore and find your favorite corners of the camp.
Day 7 & 8: Rest and Adventure at Madisa Camp
After five consecutive days of navigating Namibia’s challenging roads, we decided it was time to slow down and savor the journey. Madisa Camp, nestled amidst rugged terrain, became our oasis for two well-deserved nights of rest, exploration, and indulgence.
DAY 7: ARRIVAL AND SUNSET SERENITY
The day began with a pre-dawn adventure at Spitzkoppe, as we tackled the climb up Pontok Mountain. What had been described as “70% hike, 30% climb” proved to be much more of the latter as we approached the summit. Scrambling over boulders and testing our limits, the challenge was well worth it. The views from the top were absolutely breathtaking—another reminder of Namibia’s vast beauty.
With our morning workout complete, we set off toward Madisa Camp, a 3.5-hour drive. After refueling in Uis, the journey continued along dusty gravel roads, surrounded by wide-open landscapes and the occasional sighting of wildlife.
MADISA CAMP: A DESERT HAVEN
Upon arrival, we were immediately struck by the camp’s thoughtful layout and stunning surroundings. Here are some key recommendations to make the most of your stay:
Book Campsite #1 if Possible
While all the campsites at Madisa are spacious and scenic, Campsite #1 offers an extra level of privacy. It feels like your own secluded slice of the desert—perfect for unwinding and soaking in the beauty of Damaraland.Enjoy Dinner Under the Stars
Madisa Camp offers an exceptional dinner buffet, which must be booked in advance. We received this tip from fellow travelers, Marius and Lisa, whom we met at Deadvlei, and we were so glad we followed their advice. Dinner is cooked over a pit fire right in front of you, and the cozy, communal setup adds to the experience. The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was unforgettable.Arrange a Desert Elephant Tracking Tour
One of the highlights of our time at Madisa was a morning tour with Dion, a knowledgeable guide who tracked desert elephants through the wilderness. Seeing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat—not in a national park—was an awe-inspiring experience. The tour offered a glimpse into the unique challenges these elephants face and the beauty of their resilience.Catch Sunset at Madisa’s Viewpoint
The sunset viewpoint at Madisa is not to be missed. Make your way to the very end of the trail and settle in with a cool Savanna Cider—or two! The view is breathtaking, with the sun dipping below the horizon and casting a golden glow over the desert. It’s the perfect way to end the day.
DAY 8: WILDLIFE TRACKING AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS
For the first time in our journey, we had the luxury of a day without driving. Day 8 was all about immersing ourselves in the natural and cultural richness of Damaraland, starting with the desert elephant tracking tour led by the ever-resourceful Dion. Although we were lucky to be only the two of us, make sure you book it in advance, as they normally get fully booked.
Dion’s ability to track wildlife in the vast, rugged landscape was nothing short of remarkable. Despite receiving some misguided tips from locals, his perseverance paid off. We were ecstatic to encounter a family of desert elephants—our first sighting of one of the Big Five! Watching these majestic creatures in their natural habitat, unbothered by our presence, was an awe-inspiring experience. It reminded us of how beautifully untamed Namibia is, and the importance of preserving its wilderness.
But Dion wasn’t done yet. Fabienne eagerly mentioned her hope of seeing giraffes, which set Dion on a mission. Driving through a dried riverbed, he tracked them with the same unwavering focus he had shown earlier. Along the way, we spotted a female ostrich carefully sitting on her eggs, a testament to the diversity of life in the desert.
After some determined tracking, there they were—a group of 12 giraffes, as astonished to see us as we were to see them. The sight of their graceful, towering figures against the stark backdrop of the desert was unforgettable. It was one of those moments when time seemed to stand still, a memory that would be etched in our minds forever.
THE LIVING MUSEUM OF THE DAMARA
To round out our morning, Dion took us to the Living Museum of the Damara, a cultural stop that offered a glimpse into the life and traditions of the Damara people, one of Namibia’s oldest tribes. The Damara are known for their unique click-based language and their deep connection to the land. Although many have embraced modern lifestyles, the museum is dedicated to preserving and showcasing how their ancestors lived.
The experience included demonstrations of:
Fire Making: Using traditional tools, they showed how their ancestors created fire from scratch—a fascinating and humbling display of ingenuity.
Natural Remedies: Using herbs and plants for medicine and healing.
Handcrafts: Intricate jewelry and tools made from natural materials.
Decision-Making Processes: A look at the traditional roles of leaders and how disputes were resolved within the community.
While it leaned a bit on the touristy side, it was an informative and enriching stop that added a layer of cultural understanding to our morning. As you can imagine, the visit to the Living Museum of the Damara finishes in a charming gift shop.
💡 MADISA CAMP HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Dinner at Madisa: The buffet Madisa Camp offers for dinner is delicious and charming. On top, you do not have to cook for a night.
Unique Outdoor Showers: Showering under the open sky was a memorable experience. Each campsite comes with its own outdoor shower and braai (barbecue) area.
Refreshing Swimming Pool:
The pool area is a perfect oasis after a day of dusty driving. Surrounded by nature, it offers a refreshing escape from the desert heat.
Lowlights:
Limited Connectivity: Wi-Fi is not available at all on te camp. On the upside, this also encourages you to disconnect and enjoy your surroundings fully.
Power only for electronics: Power is available only to charge electronics, not for the fridge. You will definitely need your Type-M adaptor here to make sure you can plug yourself in.
Mosquitoes:
As the sun sets, mosquitoes swarm the camp. Avoid leaving your car doors open, as they will quickly find their way inside. Bring plenty of mosquito spray and use it liberally to avoid unwelcome bites during your stay.
Day 9: A Local Recommendation
Our journey on Day 9 took us from Madisa Camp to the stunning Hoada Camp—a destination we hadn’t initially planned but were thrilled to include based on a local recommendation. It turned out to be one of the most unique and memorable stops on our road trip, offering a true sense of immersion in Namibia’s natural beauty.
THE DRIVE: GRAVEL, DUST, AND HIDDEN GEMS
The 189 km drive from Madisa Camp to Hoada Camp was a quintessential Namibian road trip: gravel roads, endless dust, and breathtaking landscapes. Taking the D2612 towards Palmwag, the drive was fairly straightforward until we reached the C40. Here, the road began to twist and turn, snaking through the Grootberg mountains. On our right loomed the impressive Mt. Grootberg, and we knew we were entering a special area.
LUNCH WITH A VIEW: GROOTBERG LODGE
One of the highlights of the day was a stop at Grootberg Lodge, located at the top of Grootberg Pass. If you’re planning this route, make this a non-negotiable lunch stop. The only visible sign of the lodge from the road is a small security hut and an intimidatingly steep driveway. It’s easy to miss, but don’t let that discourage you.
We had called the lodge the day before to inquire about lunch, but they informed us that meals were only for guests due to limited seating. Still, we decided to take our chances—and it paid off. Once we arrived, we explained our situation, and they graciously accommodated us. The panoramic views of the Grootberg Canyon from the lodge’s restaurant were absolutely magnificent.
Pro Tip: If you’re hesitant about driving the steep incline, park your car at the security hut. The lodge provides a shuttle service that navigates the rollercoaster-like driveway to bring you to the restaurant safely.
THE ARRIVAL: HOADA CAMP
With full bellies and hearts still captivated by the views at Grootberg Lodge, we continued on the C40 for another 30 minutes until we reached Hoada Camp. As we approached, we were reassured by the fact that Hoada Camp is managed by the same team as Grootberg Lodge. If the quality of the lodge was anything to go by, we knew we were in for a treat.
Hoada Camp proved to be one of the most unique camping experiences of our trip. Nestled in the bush, each campsite is integrated into the natural environment, offering a perfect blend of comfort and wilderness.
💡 HOADA CAMP HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights:
Integrated Natural Design: The camp spots are beautifully designed to blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. The bathrooms, showers, and kitchenettes are built into the environment, with rock formations and trees creating a rustic, yet functional, setting. Showering under the open sky between two rocks is an unforgettable experience!
Privacy: The campsites are spread out, ensuring that each one feels secluded and peaceful.
Hot Water Showers: Twice a day, camp staff light small fires under the water heaters, allowing guests to enjoy warm showers—a small but meaningful luxury in the bush.
Lowlights:
No Power Outlets: While the campsites have basic facilities, there are no power outlets for charging electronics or running a fridge.
No Internet: If you rely on internet connectivity, you’ll need to plan accordingly. Hoada Camp is entirely offline.
Day 10 & 11: Exploring Etosha National Park
After a restful night at Hoada Camp and a final cozy campfire, we were ready to embark on the wildlife portion of our Namibian road trip. Etosha National Park, with its famed waterholes and incredible biodiversity, was up next. Our goal: to experience the wildlife and natural beauty of this iconic destination.
DAY 10: ENTERING ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
We made our way to Olifantrus Camp, located inside the park's western gate. There are three main entry points into Etosha: Anderson Gate near the park’s center pointh, Galton Gate, located in the far west, and Von Lindequist or Namutoni Gate in the far east. The drive from Hoada Camp to Galton Gate was a relatively easy one, primarily on paved roads, taking about 1.5 hours. Halfway to Galton Gate, there is a small location called Kamanjab, where we refueled and restocked on supplies. Once inside the national park, there are not so many opportunities to get food supplies. From Galton Gate, it was another 1.5-hour drive on gravel roads to reach Olifantrus.
Olifantrus Camp, while conveniently located near a waterhole, did not stand out as a unique experience. If you are planning your Etosha visit, I highly recommend booking one of the more popular central camps like Okaukuejo, Halali, or Namutoni, which are more centrally located and offer easier access to the Etosha Pan.
WILDLIFE ENCOUNTERS ON ARRIVAL
As we entered the park, we were greeted by giraffes, oryx, and zebras, animals that soon became as common as pigeons in Europe. While the initial encounters were exciting, the abundance of these animals meant that, after a while, their presence felt habitual. However, the elephants at Olifantrus waterhole were truly special. In the afternoon and again at night, we observed a family of elephants, including a one-year-old calf, gathering around the waterhole. Watching them in the moonlight was a highlight of our stay.
One cautionary note: The roads inside Etosha National Park are extremely bumpy and poorly maintained. While the speed limit is 60 km/h, we often found ourselves driving at 40 km/h or less to navigate the conditions. This made the journey long and tiresome.
DAY 11: LONG DRIVE TO HALALI CAMP
On our second day in Etosha, we embarked on a guided drive in the morning, but it proved underwhelming. The guided drives follow the same roads as self-drives, and we realized we could have seen the same animals independently. If you choose to do a guided drive, it may be better to observe where the guide vehicles are headed and follow them at your own pace.
By late morning, we packed up and began our journey east across the park to Halali Camp. While Google Maps indicated a 200-kilometer drive that should take 3.5 hours, the rough road conditions stretched our journey to 6.5 hours. Along the way, we took detours to visit waterholes and the Rhinoceros Drive, where we observed more giraffes, zebras, and antelopes. The scenery was beautiful but exhausting due to the challenging roads.
💡 HALALI CAMP HIGHLIGHTS AND OTHER TIPS
Highlights
Waterhole Drama: Witnessing elephants, lionesses, and hyenas interacting at the waterhole was an unforgettable experience that showcased the raw beauty of nature.
Power Outlets: Each camp spot has power outlets, making it easy to charge your electronics and keep your fridge running—a much-needed luxury in the wild.
Central Location: Halali’s position in the park makes it an excellent base to explore both the central and eastern parts of Etosha.
Lowlights:
Crowds at the Waterhole:
The waterhole often becomes crowded, with visitors jostling for the best views, which can detract from the peaceful experience.Lack of Tranquility:
As one of the more popular camps, Halali is often bustling with people, making it less quiet and serene compared to more remote campsites.
Additional Tips:
Arrive Early: Halali Camp lot allocation is based on first-come-first-serve basis. We were recommended camp spots: 7, 8, 9, 34, 35, 36. They are closer to the waterhole.
Mark your Territory: Once you have decided for a camp spot, make sure to set up your table and chair, or somehow mark it as occupied. This way you will avoid late-arrivers to scavenge.
REFLECTIONS ON ETOSHA AND WHAT WE’DO DIFFERENTLY
Etosha National Park is a unique destination, but our experience traveling west to east was not ideal. If we were to do it again, here’s how we would recommend approaching the park:
Enter through Anderson Gate. This central gate gives you access to the more vibrant areas of the park.
Plan your overnight stays strategically. Spend the first night at Okaukuejo, the second at Halali. We were told that they have the best waterholes to see wildlife. If you want to stay longer, you can consider a third at Namutoni.
Avoid guided drives. Instead, follow the guided vehicles on your own.
While Etosha wasn’t our favorite part of the road trip due to the road conditions, it was still an essential experience. The interactions at the waterholes, especially with elephants and predators, were unforgettable moments that highlighted the raw beauty of Namibia’s wildlife.
Days 12 & 13: A Birthday at a Surprise Location
For Days 12 and 13, we set out for an unknown destination—one that Fabienne had carefully planned as a birthday surprise for me. After 11 days of camping and exploring Namibia’s rugged landscapes, it was the perfect time to unwind and celebrate. Our destination: the Waterberg Guest Farm, a serene retreat nestled in the heart of the Waterberg Plateau National Park, about five hours away from Halali.
THE JOURNEY TO WATERBERG
We started early from Halali, making a quick stop at the Etosha Pan Lookout. The vast expanse of the dry pan was an intriguing sight and provided an excellent opportunity for photos. Afterward, we continued to Namutoni Gate, where we refueled and said goodbye to gravel roads—welcoming the smooth relief of asphalt.
The drive to the Waterberg region took about three and a half hours. The paved roads allowed us to relaX, listen to super interesting podcasts, and fully appreciate the changing scenery. With every kilometer, the anticipation grew as we approached the guest farm that would become a highlight of our trip.
WATERBERG GUEST FARM: A HIDDEN GEM
The Waterberg Guest Farm exceeded all expectations. The property has been in the Schneider-Waterberg family since 1909 and is now managed by Heinz Schneider-Waterberg, a fourth-generation German Namibian. The farm seamlessly blends history, hospitality, and sustainability.
The meals at the farm were a highlight of the stay. Every dish was made with fresh, homegrown ingredients—from the vegetables to the eggs, chicken, and even the milk. The honey served at breakfast was a revelation, and the fresh cow’s milk in our coffee added a touch of indulgence.
Our bungalow, Number 7, offered breathtaking sunrise views of the Waterberg Plateau. The farm’s nine bungalows and two villas are spaced out to provide privacy and a sense of tranquility. After days of camping, the comfort of a cozy bungalow with modern amenities felt like pure luxury.
Every evening at around sunset time, a bonfire is lit in the vicinity of the pool area, inviting guests to sit, relax, and enjoy the sundown and charm with a beverage of their choice.
BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS
Fabienne’s birthday surprise was nothing short of magical. On the afternoon of Day 13, after a relaxed breakfast, she revealed her plan: a horseback ride through the farm’s fields during sunset. This is on among several activities offered at Waterberg Guest Farm
The ride, guided by Jimmy, took us into the heart of the Waterberg landscape. As we rode, the sun dipped lower in the sky, casting the fields in golden hues. The Namibian sunset didn’t disappoint, painting the sky in shades of orange, pink, blue, and purple. To top it off, the team at the farm had prepared a delightful aperitivo for us to enjoy while taking in the spectacular views.
CANNOT RECOMMEND IT ENOUGH
The guest farm felt like home—a comforting contrast to the adventure-packed days before. After so many days of setting up and taking down tents, it was refreshing to be cared for, with home-cooked meals and a pool to lounge by. The staff’s friendliness and attention to detail made the stay truly special.
Staying at the Waterberg Guest Farm was the perfect way to transition from the adventure-filled days of our road trip to the reflective moments of winding down. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, this guest farm offers an experience that’s hard to match.
If you’re planning a Namibian road trip, consider making Waterberg Guest Farm your final stop. It’s a bit of a splurge, but the comfort, hospitality, and connection to nature are well worth it. It’s a place to relax, reflect, and savor the memories of your journey before heading back to Windhoek and, eventually, home.
Day 14: The Journey Back to Windhoek
As our Namibian adventure drew to a close, we took our time and enjoy breakfast at Waterberg Guest Farm to savor the last moments of tranquility before embarking on the final leg of our road trip. The drive back to Windhoek would take about two and a half hours.
Driving back, we couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible journey we’d just experienced. Namibia’s landscapes had been a breathtaking backdrop to our adventure, offering an ever-changing canvas of deserts, coastlines, wildlife, and towering dunes. Each destination had its unique charm, and the people we met along the way—guides, locals, fellow travelers—added a human connection to the raw beauty of the land.
Arriving in Windhoek, we returned our trusty Toyota Hilux, which had carried us through Namibia’s rough roads and unforgettable landscapes. Saying goodbye to our 4x4 after 3,100 kilometers together felt like parting with an old friend that had been an integral part of the journey.
SAYING GOODBYE TO NAMIBIA
Namibia isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that touches you in unexpected ways. Its vastness teaches patience, its landscapes inspire awe, and its people remind you of the importance of connection and community. As we boarded our flight home, we left Namibia with a full heart, memories to last a lifetime, and a yearning to one day return. I can confess I was not expecting Namibia to have the splendor it showed us.
Whether it’s your first time venturing into Africa or your tenth, Namibia has a way of surprising you. It’s a land where adventure meets serenity, where time slows down, and where every journey leaves you changed. If you’re considering a trip to this remarkable country, let this guide be your starting point.
Safe travels and happy exploring!
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